Some parts come preinstalled in the unit, others are spares for for modification of chopped length.Ideally suited to quick mold or part build-up once the first layer or two are in place.Kit contains: Chopper Gun (1), White Anvil Roller Sleeves (1 installed, 1 spare), 3/32" Hex Key (1), Blades (6 installed, 10 spares), and manual.Deposits the equivalent of one layer of 1 oz mat onto a vertical surface without fall-off before wet-out.New design increases cutter head surface by 32% and increased quantity of chopped material between blade replacements by 33%.This gun will deposit the equivalent of one layer of 1 oz mat onto a vertical surface without fall-off before wet-out. Resin is then applied by brush, roller or sprayed on using a cup gun.īy altering the number and location of chopper blades, the length of the fibers can be varied from 4" down to 5⁄16". The gun then chops the roving into short pieces and deposits them onto the mold. #526 Gun Roving is fed into the rear of the gun. Our #1171-A is a hand held, variable speed air powered chopper gun that is primarily used for coating molds or parts with fiberglass. The Chopper Gun makes it easy to quickly cover large surfaces with fiberglass. ChromaGlast Premium Single Stage RAL Colorsĭetails Chops Clean for Quick Fiber Build-UpĪ Chopper Gun is used to automatically chop and deposit fiberglass gun roving strands into a mold or composite part.ChromaGlast Premium Single Stage Colors.Also realize it cures exponentially faster after 70 degrees, so don't heat the pot or you wont have time to get it down. Just remember you will get sags on vertical surfaces. This helps it lay smoother and takes out the bubbles. I have only used it with epoxy to seal my plugs (poly and vinyl melt exposed foam). I'm not sure if the foam brushes will hold up to poly or vinyl resins so you need to test that. I actually prefer the foam style brushes. ![]() Use better quality $2-3 chip brushes so they don't loose their bristles. Don't use habor freight chip brushes to brush on plain epoxy (although they are great for laying up fabric). A few important notes.Ĭheap chip brushes loose their bristles. I usually use this to seal my plugs since I like to use drywall mud to build them. I have brushed on epoxy and allowed it to cure for a smooth finish. Resin is not UV resistant so you should be prepping it for paint/primer anyway. Remember the OP is trying to fix divits and dimples in the base fabric. It also will not correct any blemishes causes by uneven plug or uneven fabric thickness in the layup. Any wrinkles in the plastic will cause blemishes in the finish. However the finish will only be as good as the layup. I got a smooth 2-sided finish from a simple compression mold. I put down plastic, then glass, then plastic, then piled cinder blocks on top. You can get a glossy finish by covering it in plastic. You can also remove the epoxy part from the waxed mold. Not only can you peel off the visqueen easily, without wax, but you can also peel off the peel ply and it has resin inside of it. Vacuum bagging uses peel ply which allows the resin to pass through to the absorbent fabric on the other side, then a plastic sheet like visqueen seals the air. It doesn't stick to visqueen and other such plastics. It doesn't stick to anything with a wax surface.
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